To prepare a surface for tile you should use a cement backerboard. Do a dry run and lay the backer board down to fully cover the area you plan to tile. With the plywood in place, install the backer board as you normally would.
Using the trowel, spread adhesive and ridge it with the notched side of the trowel. Backer boards and underlayments are necessary elements for any type of ceramic tile or natural stone installation. Cement Backer Board Installation Floor. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.
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Search Search. Recent Comments No comments to show. Categories flooring insurance. And they did use thinset between plywood and hardie back and also between hardie back and tile. I have two questions… is the way this was installed ok?
Also is the weight of this ok? I know that might sound a little crazy, but I always get nervous about the structure of homes. Can my subfloor handle the weight of plywood, hardie back and tile on top of it? Uh oh… I spoke too soon. In the last question I asked I explained how the floors are higher than they used to be. These are metal doors. But even if they could that would cause a problem with the weather stripping being able to meet the threshold.
Any suggestions on how to fix this? My guess is that there is a way and you can raise the height of the threshold. Maybe someone in the community has a better answer? Hi, I removed the carpet of my master bedroom and cure the cracks on the floor with two layers of RedGard. I was going to do it with siroco over the base floor. But you said that it is not a good idea. What is the best way to do it then? I think the best way would be with a self-leveling cement.
I want to eliminate the issue where moisture destroys the particle board that normally butts up against the entry door. The height will be different but I can add a thin luan sheet in-between the 2 to make up the difference. Do I need to use any thin set morter for the hardi if I intend to have click vinyl plank installed as the finished layer on top?
I would use the cement special screws to attach the hardi to the plywood. Thanks Ron. The other thing is that a little mortar underneath may make the heights work out perfectly.
Please explain WHY is thinset necessary? Why are screws alone not adequate? What is it about backer board that necessitates thinset as an additional agent in its installation? I am not asking to be a jerk, it just does not make sense to me. Seven years ago I did a large format tile project sq ft using screws only, as of today it still going strong, no cracks, no anything? What benefit or capability does thinset add that without it the installation is compromised?
It takes away movement. Screws or nails hold the backer down and thinset holds it up. Once dry, it takes away any gaps and any further movement in the backer board. I do not trust any that the thinset will hold the boards down long term. I am tiling over existing tile, using mapei eco prom grip. Should I use self leveling cement instead. If so, which brand do you recommend?
Foam board panels, like Wedi board or GoBoard, come in a variety of sizes and have a procedure for installing over cement. Additionally, self-leveling underlayment works fine and would give a flat floor, if done correctly. The easiest solution, as long as the heights will match up, would be to use an uncoupling membrane like Ditra or Ditra XL.
My kitchen tiles became loose one by one. I lift the wonder-board and I see a straight crack. What could be the reason? So, that tells me that there is no mortar underneath the cement board which could be the cause of your loose tile issue. If you want to use tap cons and install them per the fastener schedule then maybe that will work. Great forum thanks a lot. I am getting ready to install tile in a small upstairs bathroom. I first poured self leveling concrete to make up for a substantial slope, I then cut Hardi backer which I will install with thin set underneath and finally screw down the Hardi backer through the self leveling concrete and into the plywood sub floor.
Does this seem like an ok idea or do I need to scrap the Hardi backer for a different product over the floor leveler? Thanks a lot, Jon. First thing, is I would check if you installed the correct leveler. There are only certain levelers that are approved for going over wood substrates and one of those types would need to be installed.
Alternatively, some levelers require metal lath to be installed over a wood subfloor prior to installing the leveler. If you wanted to install cement board then that should have been installed first thing and directly over the wood subfloor. I am in the process of installing a new ceramic tile floor over hydronic viega radiant heat. I will use the viega climate panel, which the pex tubing snaps into. The viega installation instructions say to glue and screw the backer hardie board down.
Your suggestion is to use thinset and screws. What method should be used and if it is glue, what type? Or if thinset, what type issued over the pex tubing? Thanks for any information. Can you put thinset mortar on OSB subfloor? This is not advantech OSB just the Lowes cheap stuff. It depends on what you are installing. If you are installing cement board or an uncoupling membrane then, yes, you would thinset those down and sometimes to OSB.
What is it that you want to stick to the OSB with the thinset? Appreciate this page. I have 1 inch thick by 4 inch wide pine boards, with no subfloor underneath.
The boards fasten right to the beams underneath, thus removing them is not really an option I believe. They are solid as only about 10 years old, but not tongue and groove so not super tight in all spots. I have a feeling I need to use plywood above before I put down thinset and backer board but want to confirm that.
I understand that the backer board does not add structural strength, but do I really need that if the floor itself is strong? My home has OSB as a subfloor like alot of homes now. Is it safe to say that I can treat it like a plywood subfloor and place mortar, cement board, mortar then tile or is it not even worth doing with having OSB?
At least not yet. The other advantage of this is that it keeps the overall height of the floor down. Cement board is a great way of going over OSB and the way that you outlined should work perfectly. Additionally, it helps if you can scrape, or sand, the surface to promote adhesion. If anything happens then the particle board will swell and ruin the tile. You can rent a toe kick saw if you need to get under the cabinets. Link to instagram video about removing vinyl subfloor.
You can also install backer board, like you mentioned, but then the floor height is going to be a lot higher than it currently is and you could have issues with door heights, etc.
Thank you for a great forum. I am replacing 20 year old 8X8 ceramic tiles in our 80 sqft kitchen installed on gypsum. When I removed the old tiles and gypsum, OSB board revealed random spots of dried mold especially under the refrigerator. Apparently the refrigerator had small leaks over the years but the compressor heat evaporated the water while causing minor mold therefore we did not have any extensive smell of the mold. Since I had a hip fracture 2 years ago, doing floor work was extremely difficult and expensive especially thin-setting multiple times between layers of the underlayments.
I experimented laying DITRA first under the sink cabinet 4 sqft area and realized that 80 sqft will be a huge pain. However, my enthusiasm has been curbed when I read Hardibacker installation instructions and your recommendations that I still need to have thinset under the cement board. That means I am back to where I am with thinset mess and pain and more expense. Second question is, Hardibacker is not waterproof unless I use Hardibacker Hydrodefense for Walls.
Can I use Hardibacker Hydrodefense for floors? For me waterproofing and protecting 20 year old OSB from mold is more important. Really appreciate your advice. It sounds like you need to come up 1 inch with the underlayment. I think the best way to go would be to add plywood over the floor as it is right now.
You would have to check with the manufacturer to see if mortar underneath Hardibacker is necessary. I know Hardibacker wants mortar underneath but they are also assuming that you will be installing tile with a mortar adhesive.
You can waterproof over the Hardibacker on a floor if you want. Also, on one side of the tub against the wall they installed green board. At the back of the tub there is the Hardibacker where it joins into the open shower.
I had thought to put Redguard over that section which will not receive a lot of water. Am I cool? Or should I demand it be cut to the height of the tile installation and hardibacker installed. The shower is separate from the tub. Either thickness of Hardibacker works just fine over a floor. IUsing thinset under cement board depends on your subfloor. Over plywood I agree..
They spray a wax waterproofing on the floor. Thinset will not bond to it. Most new houses have advantic in them. You have to sand the whole floor down.. It usually dry before that and you can tell by the color change of the mortar. We put the cement board smooth side out, because for reason reason I had it in my head that thin-set was a mastic and not mortar. Am I doomed if I use thin-set on the smooth side? I have a laundry room that had a laminate sheet flooring in it.
I removed the laminate to find they had put down 3 layers of it glued in various places. It all looks to be the same so I guess it was done at the same time. I finally got this up and find the glue is not coming up. Can I use a cement board to give me a clean level surface to lay my tile on?
However, if you have a wood subfloor then you may not be down as far as you need to be. Typically, the flooring is over an underlayment that is on top of the subfloor. That underlayment should come out as well. It is on a concrete floor. As I said I am down to just the remaining glue. It is hard and not coming up. I talked with a contractor and he said we could do the backer board or a leveling compound.
Not sure what to do as I now have a cement floor with the glue remanence on it. You could use a foam board like Wedi or a leveling compound. The best way to get rid of the glue is to grind it off with an electric grinder and a diamond cup wheel. Alternatively, you could prime over it with a product like Mapei Eco Prim Grip and then use a leveler or even adhere tile directly to that. I hope I have enough information to make an answer possible.
We are renovating the mudroom and lav of our home. I have a contractor, but was expecting to lay tile ourselves. The contractor has removed the previous tiles, which have been cracking.
If I understand correctly, they had been set over vinyl flooring with no cement board. In general, though, I trust him. Do I need to find another flooring material? Should I limit myself to significantly smaller, or even mosaic, tiles? They are trying to tell you the best way to install them. What about door swings? Bluestone is very thick and heavy, probably has some variance in the thickness of the product, and is going to be difficult to cut and install.
If you do decide to move forward with the bluestone installation, I would recommend getting a professional installer. Hi there! I have removed all the vinyl flooring in the bathroom but there is quite a bit of old black adhesive which has been almost impossible to remove.
Is that something I can leave and cover with thinset or do I need to use a self leveling product? I have a bathroom floor to tile. Proper installation of hardie board follows a basic procedure that ensures a secure, stable surface to support the tile.
The plywood adds stiffness and stability to the floor. Cement board is a type of underlayment that is now standard for most tile installations, but particularly for floor tile.
Snap a grid of chalk lines to mark the location of backerboard. Fill the joints with mortar. Fasten the backer board to the floor using proper nails or screws, as recommended by the manufacturer, every 8 around the perimeter and all supporting the studs. No extra layers of underlayment are required. Installing cement board at the beginning of your remodeling project is crucial when you want waterproof tile floors that will last for many years without cracking or other signs of damage.
How do you install hardie board on the floor? Nail the board to the house every 16 to 24 inches with a roofing nail along the nail line printed on the top of the siding board. While the mortar is still wet, place a sheet of backerboard onto it. Replace any warped, missing, or uneven sections of flooring so that you have a flat and clean surface.
Backer board installation labor, basic basic labor to install backer board with favorable site conditions. Drywall screws spaced every 4 in. Then you attach the cement board with screws.
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