Hrv installers

Or the lack of experiencing noise or uncomfortable air. Below is a quick guide to some of the more common questions asked about Zehnder products. For more information, please reference other Zehnder documents on our website or contact us directly at Passive Houses have different requirements, however.

You can find the link to that page here. HRVs utilize a heat-exchanger core that captures the heat from outgoing stale air and applies it to incoming fresh air.

The ERV core is made from advanced materials that allow not only heat but also moisture from outgoing air to diffuse into the fresh incoming air.

This is especially important in cold climates when the ambient outside air temperature is below freezing and the relative humidity is at or near zero. Be sure to check in with local building code to see what is required in your area. Interior duct runs should only be made within the conditioned envelope of the building. Avoid routes through exterior walls, unconditioned spaces, and spaces that are under insulated.

It is important to have adequate frost prevention and depending on your climate, there are best practices available. The Zehnder ComfoFond-L utilizes a ground loop of glycol and a small circulating pump to pre-heat or pre-cool and dehumidify incoming air with a hydronic coil.

Option Two — Utilize an electric or hydronic pre-heater. Option Three — Imbalance flows to allow for warm exhaust air to defrost unit. During summer nights and in the shoulder seasons of spring and fall with strong sunshine, the house can become too warm, while the outside temperature remains pleasantly cool.

If return diffusers are installed in the bathrooms or laundry rooms, you will not need an extract air fan as the HRV will effectively replace them. A kitchen range hood will still be required, however except in Passive House designs by a certified Passive House Consultant. This is required for all HRV systems. The ERV systems do not require a condensate drain as they recirculate the moisture that passes through them.

Heat recovery ventilation HRV systems allow high-quality indoor air, without compromising energy efficiency. They achieve this by supplying a constant supply of fresh, filtered air into the home, while exhausting an equal quantity of stale or contaminated air. In the winter, the majority of the heat from the exhaust air is captured and used to pre-heat the incoming air, resulting in a high level of energy efficiency.

In the summer, incoming air is pre-cooled by exhaust air in the indoor temperatures are lower than outdoor temperatures. Radon, fumes from cooking and formaldehyde from building products are all common indoor contaminants. One of the best ways to promote indoor air quality in Silicon Valley is by diluting indoor airborne toxins with fresh air.

Our systems work around the clock to provide fresh air into the home. With an HRV system, you have control over where the intake air in your home originates, removing one hurdle to clean indoor air. We are specialists in everything ventillation and the indoor environment.

Look after your ventilation system and it will look after you. We service all makes, models and types of ventilation system including;.

We'll help diagnoise any issues or error codes too you might be experiencing too. We've partnered with The Air Shop to bring you all your ventilation products and accessories. The Air Shop also offers a range of products to help reduce allergies and improve the air your breathe in your home including virus zapping air purifiers for your bedrooms and living areas to humidifiers and chemical free cleaning proucts that clean without pollutants!

Your outdoor air impacts your indoor air. Check your postcode and see our recommendations for ventilation in your home. If you can cut into sheet metal ductwork confidently, join pipe and drive screws, HRV installation is something you can handle. All HRVs direct a supply of fresh, outdoor air into your house while exhausting stale indoor air outside. This dual-flow system is the ventilation part of the equation. An HRV also reclaims most of the heat from stale air before shooting it outside.

This is the heat recovery part of the deal and it happens inside the black and white square thing you see in the open HRV below. Good planning is the first step towards a successful installation. Your first task is to find a location for your HRV that minimizes the length of ducts needed to connect it to the outdoors and to any existing duct system inside your house. Both intake and exhaust ducts that connect to exterior wall louvers must be factory-insulated, while both ducts leading to and from exclusively indoor locations should be plain, rigid metal.

Typical duct size is 6 inches in diameter for both types. You could try to get away with 5-inch, but this size might not allow sufficient air flow. Why take a chance? The rough internal surface of the insulated duct impedes air flow more than smooth duct does.

Plus, the polyethylene outer wrap on the insulate duct is fragile. It must never be torn or damaged. These two reasons are why you want as little insulated duct as possible in your installation. Access to some kind of drain is another issue that affects HRV location. The amount of water produced by an HRV is relatively small, so you can connect the drain line to a sump hole in the basement floor, a regular plumbing drain, or even a floor drain. You can tap into typical ABS drain pipe by drilling a hole for the flexible vinyl drain line from your unit, then use silicone caulking to secure the line within the pipe.

Think the HRV location issue through and give yourself a day or two to consider several options before choosing a final spot. The least important location feature is access to electricity. Adding a new outlet nearby is better than having long ducts or a long drain line. Sheet metal work usually forms the biggest part of most HRV installations. Duct needs to be cut flat. This allows lengths of assembled duct to be connected end-to-end — one piece fitting inside the other.

But it only takes one short cut to remove the crimped end from a length of pipe. Then what do you do next time when you need another crimped chunk of pipe to make a connection?