Norton commando wiring

My local MoT man allowed m… My local MoT man allowed my bike to pass with just one of the two brake switches functioning. Commonly on older bikes th… Commonly on older bikes the brake light runs direct from the battery and not through the ammeter.

It makes sense for three reasons: one is that it is intermittently used and the ammeter really tells you if the charger is keeping up with the discharge for most not all of the time; and secondly because it saves wire, and thirdly because it reduces the number of connections and simplifies the 'rat's nest'.

It also makes it that much easier to wire up. I wish I'd realised that before I recently wired my own new brake on an old bike. A ten minute job took quite unnecessarily well over an hour as a result. Thanks for the replies. Al… Thanks for the replies. Alll comments have been note and will be incorporated. Checking the mot requiremnets the section regarding stop lamps states that: Machines first used before 1 April must have a stop lamp that operates from at least one brake control.

If you use a standard bulb for the turn signal indicator amber , you can use the diodes shown, but the standard wiring will work fine. The diodes are required when you use an LED for the indicator. Look almost at the end here for more information. Note that Norton swapped the left and right handlebar switches during I find it silly to have the turn signal control on the right so I show it on the left as it was on the earlier bikes and on my Triumphs. The wiring doesn't change to swap sides, you simply swap the wired consoles.

There is no hurry, take your time. Categories: motorcycles , Original Wiring Diagrams. Tagged as: circuit , circuit diagram , commando , electrical , motor bike , motor cycle , motorbike , motorcycle , norton , norton commando , wiring , wiring diagram. It needs three changes other than the EI and VR.

There is no front brake switch. So, the master switch will turn the bike off completely. Click Here. Hi Grant I have a Commando and am trying to trace the wiring and am finding that my loom does not fit either of the wiring diagrams shown. It seems to fit exactly as the three wire switch but mine is fitted with an ammeter so my question is, has the wiring been modified by a previous owner and how should the ammeter be connected into the circuit. Also when I use my indicators the ammeter shows an intermittent discharge is this correct.

Hoping you may have time to give me an answer John. The earlier bikes with standard ammeter wiring are very very different — much simpler and with only a two position ignition switch on or off.

It sounds to me like a previous owner has indeed run the wires for an ammeter. I did a custom wiring diagram for Vaughan, a guy on facebook who has got exactly the same setup as this. The only difference is that his bike is a model, so has the four pin master switch. Although my bike is a 71 — it was delivered in early January , so was presumably built towards the end — although I understand from the Vintage Motorcycle Club, that the records show it was built to a spec.

Obviously not things on the wiring diagram. The ammeter, red warning light and switch were in the 7 inch headlight. Confusingly the red light was for the high beam warning light! There was no assimilator on these bikes. The ammeter was dropped the following year, and three warning lights were in the headlamp shell until the MK3 came along. The fiamm horn and relay were a popular upgrade of the time — although not standard.

Are you using the original tricon switch or have you fitted an aftermarket one and lost the use of the flasher button? As I said my forte is mechanical ,but if I had stripped the original all would have had tags and photos. I don't think pictures of someone else's wiring is going to help you much. Might help with cable routing but otherwise you'll just see a bunch of coloured wires wrapped in black sleeving disappear into a connector block.

Follow the wiring diagram and colour codes and you'll be fine. There's one in the Haynes manual. Don't think it's fair to criticise the PO; if he pulled the loom off without unwrapping it then you can just lay it back in place and match up the colours. If it's a mix of original, new and DIY then you won't want to put it back as it was anyway. You might have trouble mating old and new 'cos they originally used multi-way connectors but the looms available now use bullets.

Whatever you do, get rid of those nasty blue snap connectors visible in the first picture. Unfortunately they're closed for the duration. I re-wired my Mk3 from scratch as what I'd inherited from the PO was in a rather sorry state. Not that difficult, honest. Definitely worth taking the opportunity add relays into the headlamp circuit to help 45 year-old switchgear and replacing the rectifier and zeners with a modern all-in-one box which you might have in pic 3.

I am sure that many of us looked at your first request and wanted to help, but there really isn't much we can do or say. I have rewired my Mk3 twice now since new. Yours seems to have been rewired from the photos so you have no option but to study and understand motorcycle wiring or hand it over to someone who does it for a job try Al Oz in the membership magazine.

If you want to have a go then read a basic book on motorcycle electrics, look at the MK3 wiring diagram and redraw it for yourself, then take apart the current loom that you have and draw out what you think it may be doing.

There are several changes that can and should be made to the original Mk3 loom and it is at that point that we can pitch in with help on what we might have done. Good if you have the wiring schematic. The main difference is in the fuses and headlight bucket area. Post it here if this is your situation The Boyer Power Box is the non standard rectifier and voltage controller to turn the AC from the alternator to DC to keep the battery charged.

It also has a big capacitor inside so you can start and run with no battery if you wish, and not blow the lights. But alongside it are some other regulators. You have to ask why? Maybe the Boyer box stopped working My advice would be to replace all the wiring after having all electrical components checked out or replaced, having first assessed what you have and what is advailable. If you plan to use the electric start you need to upgrade some parts and the Zenners are not available, what state is you alternator in?

Your pics have also answered another couple of issues ,nothing to do with the wiring but where a spacer is required on the frame and the plate adjacent the oil tank. Diagrams and exploded views are all well and good but looking at the real thing would help me better than any literature. I have a manual purchased from Andover Norton but I may invest in a Haynes Manual , may be more explicit.